How To Build A Floating Deck Right Over Your Grass

A floating deck can add visual interest to an otherwise mundane yard and provide a smooth surface above grass-dwelling insects that's ideal for entertaining. Floating decks look expensive and custom, but a two-person team could easily build one over the course of a few weekends – given the right tools, materials and plenty of patience. To make the process easier, plug in your desired dimensions into any deck designer website and receive a custom report on everything you'll need to complete your floating deck.

To start building a 16-foot square deck, you will need a shovel or auger, a level, a drill and drill bits, grass-safe spray paint and a gravel. You also should have 10 concrete deck blocks, 10 6 X 6 pressure-treated posts that are 2 feet long, three 2 X 10 pressure-treated beams that are 16 feet long, 15 2 X 8 long pressure-treated joists that are 16 feet long, 34 1 X 6 deck boards that are 16 feet long, 20 steel post caps, 22 2 X 12 joist hangers, 35 3-inch countersinking deck screws and 350 3-inch flathead stainless steel deck screws.

First, figure out your deck size. Factor in any furniture or outdoor appliances you want to keep on the deck and keep their dimensions in mind. For example, the materials listed above are sized for a square, 16-foot-by-16-foot floating deck. Once you've determined the area it will cover, mark off the outline in your yard using grass-safe spray paint.

Use spray paint to mark an "X" where the concrete blocks and posts will go. A 16-foot square deck, for instance, would require 10 posts arranged in three rows: Three posts spaced approximately 7 feet, 3 inches apart on the right, four posts spaced approximately 4 feet, 9 inches apart in the middle, and another row of three posts spaced 7 feet, 3 inches apart on the left. The three rows of posts should be evenly spaced 7 feet, 3 inches apart, with the first and last posts in each row parallel. Depending on the deck height you want, dig holes 2 to 3 feet deep using a shovel or an auger, which you can rent from a home improvement store.

Pour a layer of gravel into the holes before pouring concrete blocks to allow for water drainage when it rains. Set the posts and fill the holes with concrete mix. Once posts are secure, place a flat board over one row and use a level to ensure posts are of equal height. Repeat this process for each row of posts.

Secure metal post caps, which will hold the support beams, onto the tops of each post. Standing the 2 X 10 beams so that they are 10 inches tall, place one on each row of posts from left to right. Once you've laid the first beam, use a level to make sure it's parallel to the ground, then secure it to the post cap using a drill for pilot holes and a screw bit to drive 1-inch screws. Repeat these steps for the next two beams.

Next, attach the 2-by-8 boards, or joists, on top of the support beams. Place them so they're 8 inches tall and perpendicular to the beams. Start with the outermost joists using post caps, a drill and screws to attach them to the support beams. Then, frame out the area by attaching two more 2-by-8 boards to the right and left sides. Use a drill and screws to do this.

Fill in the middle space with the remaining 11 joists, spaced approximately 14.25 inches apart. Use joist hangers, screws and a drill to attach them to the framework on each end.

Now it's time to add the 1-by-6 deck boards. Place them so that they're 1 inch tall and 6 inches wide with only enough space in between to fit a nail. This allows the wood to breathe and allows for water drainage when it rains. Use a drill and decking screws to attach the boards to the joists below.

From here, optional steps include treating the deck with exterior weatherproof stain and sealant, adding stairs depending on the height of your deck and adding a railing.